Day 13 – Leaving the Meseta and New Challenges

We had breakfast this morning at the excellent Hostel La Coruna, a family run business by a very energetic, attentive and friendly staff.  “Visi” who speaks excellent english checked us in yesterday with a big smile.  Her sister, Maria, also ensured that we would have a place to stay for today,  Visi’s twin brother, Santiago, gave us professional and friendly service as he was our waiter last evening. The rooms were very clean and well maintained.  Visi asked me to say hi to Cristina at the Hosteria El Refugio in Rabanal. More on that later.

Since leaving Burgos on May 17th, we have not had a single warm morning.  Everyday has started out very cold.  The Camino teaches us something new everyday and each day presents a new challenge.  Last night we all felt confident in making the 21.4 km (13,3 miles) walk today.  We were all feeling good.  We were strong  today.  Then we walked the Camino.  Leaving Astorga this morning was another typical Camino morning walking in the cold.  As we left the  city and started on the rural path the wind started.  It’s one thing walking more than 21 kilometers on a steady incline as we approach the mountainous region bordering the Leon province and Galicia. However, just as we were expecting an “easy” walk today, a cold biting, relentless wind right into our faces started that did not end all day.  It was constant.  It never seemed to lessen.  It was another reminder that the Camino has something new and unexpected for us every day.

For the first time in a week I felt great!  No pain in my feet.  My legs, calves, knees, lower back all felt fine.  The pace I set for myself today was the fastest yet,  I was doing over 8 kilometers an hour which may not sound like much but it was a pace in which I was passing many fellow pilgrims.

There are many pilgrims now.  It seems that the closer we get to Santiago, the more pilgrims we see on the Camino.   I’ve heard that there are at least 14,000 pilgrims currently walking the Camino.  All I know is that it is now at the point that I feel compelled to book reservations each day for the next destination.  If I were traveling alone I feel intrigued by the idea of “letting the Camino come to me.”  With my very serviceable Spanish, I feel confident I could find  at least a mattress on a church floor in these villages.  However, traveling with Nancy, Andrea and Heike, it seems more likely that we may not find 4 beds or a combination of 2 rooms that accommodate us if we arrive at our destination each day by 2pm.  Many of the villages we’ve stayed at are fully booked by 4 or 5pm.  We’re finding that 20 – 25 kilometers a day are pretty much our max distance.  30 to 40 kilometers renders us nearly useless the next day,  Therefore, reaching a village at the end of the day only to find that we need to walk another 7 to 10 kilometers to find an available bed doesn’t sound very appealing.  That’s not a chance I’m willing to take.  Maybe I’m not walking the Camino as a “purist” but I keep going back to my belief that each of us must experience the Camino in our own way,  If it means making reservations in advance when we can or taking a bus for a short distance to save our legs for the mountains ahead then that’s OK. The idea, at least for me, is to experience this Camino as fully as I can with my wife, daughter, and now our dear Camino friend Heike.  The idea is to finish in Santiago.  Blowing out a knee, wearing out our legs, twisting an ankle, injuring ourselves in a seemingly endless array of possibilities rendering ourselves incapable of reaching Santiago doesn’t make sense to me.

So today with the wind blowing coldly, relentlessly and bitterly we kept walking.  This morning we were joined by a friendly German lady Gabby who has been walking alone.  A lot of people walk alone on the Camino but I find that even harder to do.  Especially days like today.  Fighting the cold and the wind that just wouldn’t end I was alone in my thoughts.  I prayed for those I know who are not doing well, I gave thanks for all that I’ve been given which is more than I’ve prayed for and much more than I’ve ever deserved.  Then for our first real, sit down break we stopped in the village of Santa Catalina de Somoza.  Just a few days ago as we entered the village of Vila de Manzarife and we were settling into having lunch at a very pilgrim friendly alberque, the two very  tired ladies came into the courtyard asking for directions to another alberque in this village. I could see the familial resemblance so I assumed that this was a mother-daughter couple experiencing the Camino.  Apparently, they had become lost, the older lady of the two had her backpack shipped to an alberque in this village in which they didn’t know where it was.  They also didn’t know if the alberque where the older lady’s backpacked had been transported had any available beds.  They also didn’t speak Spanish.  I offered to ask if there were any beds left in this alberque.  I also remembered where the alberque is in which her backpack was shipped.  No beds left at this alberque.  I then gave them directions to the alberque where the backpack was.  I felt so bad for them.  They looked weary and I sincerely hoped that they would find two beds at the other alberque.  I wasn’t sure if I’d ever see them again.

As is the way of the Camino, as we entered a restaurant for cafe con leche, I saw the two ladies sitting down to do the same.  I went to them and asked if they found beds that night.  They had, at the same alberque in which the backpack was shipped.  I sat and visited with them for a few minutes.  As it turns out, they are a mother and daughter from Glascow, Scotland walking the Camino together.  You already know about the miserable day we’re having with the relentless, cold, biting wind.  The rest of my day was made easy thanks to the conversation I had with these remarkable ladies.  Sharon, the mother, spoke in a soft, but strong Glascow accent.  She shared with me an incredible story of tragic losses in her family and personal health issues.  Yet, she spoke in such a gentle, peaceful manner in which the love she has for her daughter and family, that I was nearly moved to tears.  By this point, her daughter, Avril, arrived with their drinks.  I told her that her mother is an inspiration and that she must be very proud of her.  Avril smiled and responded that she tells her mother every day how proud she is of her.  As you look at their faces, you can see how beautiful they both are both physically but in spirit.  I will not forget these two ladies and I pray for their safe travels and return to their home in Scotland.  They will not be forgotten.

The wind never let up.  We crossed the Turienzo river over the Puente de Panote.  We followed a well marked dirt path with a moderately steep incline.  To our right was a fence separating us from so many trees that it blocked the wind.  For the first time in hours, we didn’t have that cold wind beating us.  Along this path with the trees blocking the wind was also silence.  It was still.  Comfortingly still,  Then I noticed the crosses,  Along this fence people had put on makeshift crosses interlacing the wood along the fence wires,  As far as one could see there were crosses of every shape and size all determined by whatever loose wood was available along the path.  Nancy stopped for a moment and made her own makeshift cross.  She said a prayer for all those in our family who have already passed before us.  How many years have these crosses been there?  How many pilgrims take the time to stop and put up their own cross?

We continued along this path for what seemed like another kilometer or so then we were led back to the road, away from the protection of the trees (and the crosses?) and the wind resumed until we reach our destination for the day, Rabanal del Camino.

It started to rain.  We walked through the village to the Hostel del Refugio where we are staying for the evening.  This is a beautiful property which reminds me of a fine Colorado Ski Lodge.  Christina who checked us in, like her friend Visi in Astorga, was extremely helpful and cheerful.

Today was hard in so many ways.  Walking in the strong, cold, relentless,  biting wind can wear on you both physically and emotionally.  Heike was really bothered by this.  However, her sister,m Nicole and best friend Yvonne along with her new Colorado family all encouraged her.  Were here for each other!  We’ve also now passed the midway point between Burgos and Santiago.  We are now 243 kilometers from Santiago!

Tomorrow morning we should walk over the highest point on the Camino, the Cruz de Ferro.  We plan to stay in the village of Riego de Ambros tomorrow.  Since we’ll still be in the mountains and in a small village, I don’t know if we’ll have wifi connection.  It may be another day before I can post another blog.

Buen Camino!

View this morning as we left Astorga and into the countryside.

Two beautiful ladies from Glascow, Scotland. Avril and her mother Sharon.

A German father sharing the wonderful gift of the Camino with his daughter and son.

Nancy putting up her own cross on a fence line filled with crosses.

An example of the hundreds of makeshift crosses we saw today.

Our destination today. Rabanal del Camino.