Today is actually the 12th day since we left Burgos on Friday, May 17th, 236 kilometers ago.  Although we have developed our “walking legs” we no longer are sporting that fresh look and skip in our step.  After this distance and this amount of walking, we are looking more like the peregrinos (spanish word for pilgrims) we saw in Burgos who had started in France.  Although this motley crew of 3 Americans and 1 German continue to laugh and smile, there is a weariness and limp in our step by the time we reach each day’s destined stop.  We are definitely blending in with the “veteran” peregrinos.  Last night was actually harder for Heike and me than the 40 kilometer walk we did a few days ago.  Nancy and Andrea having been walking without their backpacks for over a week (we’re transporting them through a spanish company that provides this service) plus their 4 day rest in Leon really showed yesterday.  Although Heike and I spent an extra day in Leon to rest, yesterday’s 30 kilometer walk proved challenging for us.  Nancy and  Andrea kept a healthy, brisk pace the entire day.  It was great to see because I was really concerned over Nancy’s knee and Andrea’s hips tightening.  I pray they continue to keep their energy and health.  Nancy’s now fighting a cold but that’s par for the course.  No one seems to get through the Camino unscathed. We left the vibrant and exciting city of Leon yesterday morning and when we passed the industrial part of the city, the camino quickly led us to wide open rural spaces.  What a contrast!  We made several stops along the way and had a very good lunch in the village of Vilar de Mazarife which had a little plaza with a interesting statue dedicated to St. James.  Knowing that there was not a taxi service in the village nor the remaining 14.5 kilometers to our day’s destination, Hospital de Orbigo, I was getting concerned about Nancy’s knees. As is becoming standard on the Camino, a taxi was parked right at the entrance of the village as the taxi man was picking up a fare.  I spoke to him and he gave me his business card in case I needed to call him.  I know that many people speak of the sweet spirit found on the Camino.  I also understand that most people walking the camino do not do so for religious reasons.  However, given the string of “coincidental signs” I’ve already seen, and my own personal faith, it looks more and more to me that there’s something more at play here.  It’s really amazing to witness if you have your eyes open. We reached Hospital de Orbigo around 6 in the evening.  Many hours after most pilgrims have checked in for the day.  We crossed the Puente de Orbigo which is one of the longest and most well preserved ancient bridges in all of Spain.  There was once a Roman bridge built on this site but in the 13th Century a “newer” bridge was built over it.  There is a very interesting historical significance to this bridge in medieval times.  Andrea and Nancy gracefully crossed the bridge while Heike and I hobbled behind them.  At least we treated ourselves at staying at a “posh” bed and breakfast (by most standards – not just camino standards) at the El Caminero. Astorga, today’s destination was obnly 18 kilometers from Hospital de Orbigo.  This is one of the larger cities on the Camino and another with many historical attributes.  The Plaza Catedral is absolutely marvelous.  The Bishop’s Palace is another work by the incomparable Gaudi.  We found a very active and packed market ongoing in the Plaza Mayor which has a 17th Century Baroque city hall (Ayuntamiento) with a famous clock which is struck by a male and female mechanical figure.  It reminded me a little bit of the Ratskeller in Munich.   Two more thoughts.  The pilgrims menu offered at nearly every restaurant and alberque along the Camino is too much to eat.  The typical menu is a choice of three different “primero” which is usually a full plate, followed by a choice of three different “secundo” which is also a full plate, then a choice of one of three different desserts.  You have the option of water (usually a bottle if there’s 3 or 4 of us) and/or a bottle of wine.  Too much food!  The other random thought is that in nearly every restaurant you’ll find a large flat screen TV.  It doesn’t usually have sports or news on, it’s regular programming.  TV shows one would normally see during the day on TV.  This is not something you’ll likely see in the States, nor in Germany, according to Heike. Tomorrow we start heading to the mountains in which we’ll walk a gradual 20 kilometer ascent to our next destination, Rabanal del Camino.  When we reach there, we will have passed the halfway point between Burgos and Santiago!  The day after tomorrow we’ll be challenged with the hike up highest point of the entire Camino, the Cruz de Ferro and the very steep descent down to Molinaseca. I will keep you posted as best I can!

Gaudi's famous Casa de Botines in Leon, Sunday night

Gaudi’s famous Casa de Botines in Leon, Sunday night

Country scene somewhere between Leon and Vilar de Mazarife.

Country scene somewhere between Leon and Vilar de Mazarife.

Statue honoring pilgrims in Vilar de Mazarife.

Statue honoring pilgrims in Vilar de Mazarife.

Andrea and Heike

Andrea and Heike out for a walk.

The medieval Puente de Orbigo.

The medieval Puente de Orbigo.

Another impressive example of Gaudi's work, the Bishop's Palace in Astorga.

Another impressive example of Gaudi’s work, the Bishop’s Palace in Astorga.

The irrepressible Danes, Henrik and Heide, who have already walked over 1,000 kilometers from their French home.

The irrepressible Danes, Henrik and Heide, who have already walked over 1,000 kilometers from their French home.