Yesterday was a really tough day but a great day!  We spent this past Monday in Triacastela recuperating and relaxing after the ardous hike over O-Cebreiro.  Monday was a “piece of cake” 9 – 10 kilometer walk.  We sauntered into Triacastela so early that we left our backpacks at the hotel Vilasante.  Pepin who is a 3rd generation owner of this family business was like family to us. He really took care of us and made sure that we had everything we needed.  We walked back into the center of this very old haven for Pilgrims and sat in the courtyard of what seems to be the most popular restaurant in town.  We enjoyed our afternoon sitting in the sun, the girls drinking Sangria and your humble blogger drinking Galician beer.  It was literally a day in the sunshine and another opportunity to share our Camino experiences.  We then saw our Canadian Camino friends from Newfoundland, Wayne, Cathy, Lauren and Sharon and invited them to join us.  Wayne and I then had a very stirring conversation about the NHL and most specifically, the Toronto Maple Leafs.  Wayne is as big a fan of the Leafs as I am of the Tampa Bay Buccaneers.  Like Wayne, our teams have not fared very well when it comes to hoisting championship banners.  I really enjoyed his passion for his team and the game.  I hope we have other opportunities to talk NHL and the Maple Leafs.  Maybe next year, Wayne?  The Leafs win it all?

Yesterday, was a real grind.  We left Triacastela, a village of 900 people named in Galician after Three Castles, none of which still survive.  Historically, this was a very significant resting place for pilgrims of the Middle Ages coming down from the mountain (like we did the day before).  When leaving Triacastela we started a steady 7 kilometer climb and never seemed to let up.  The remainder of the way to Sarria was basically a descent but we still were going up and down the river valleys which seem to be everywhere in Galicia.  This was also the day I decided to “go it alone” and leave the girls behind.  I’ve been wanting to see how well I would do finding my own rhythm.  Yesterday I found it.  Incredibly, at least for me, we’ve now walked more than 400 kilometers.  My body is really adjusting to the daily 20+ kilometer walks.    The last time I saw the girls was in the village of Furela, 9.8 kilometers into our day.  The next 15 kilometers I just bolted.  I didn’t speak to a single individual (no really!) except for an American career diplomat, Carol, who turned 70 this year and started her Camino in St. Jean Pied du Port in France.  We spoke for about 5 kilometers and parted in Sarria.  Anyway, this was a day that I could really think and meditate for a few hours.  It was wonderful!

Let me make one quick confession before I bolted.  In the beginning of our morning hike as we were climbing steeply up hill, Nancy mentioned that she was getting really hot.  She wanted to stop to take off her jacket and just walk wearing her light shirt.  She stopped and started to take off her jacket.  Nancy  has a great figure for a woman of any age.  I know the Camino is very nonsexual and can be an incredibly strong spiritual experience but I turned around and admired my wife of 34 years with quite a bit of admiration.  Perhaps too much because I made the cardinal sin of walking backwards on this very remote rural path.  I stepped into a fresh pile of  cow manure, which thankfully, was just a small amount!  That’s what I get for losing myself on the Camino!

I really wish that I could better articulate just how beautiful this Galician countryside is.  To be fair, I’ve seen similarly beautiful and idyllic countryside in Germany, England, and the US.  However, I’ve never WALKED this type of countryside like this before.  I highly recommend it.  I’m finding it stimulating.  Imagine that you are able to get alone in your thoughts with the absolute beauty and serenity that being far away from civilization and the surroundings of  lush green rolling hills with the only sounds breaking the silence are birds chirping and singing, frogs croaking in the creeks, and the cows mooing in the distance.  This kind of walk is also set up by the fact that I KNOW that I won’t be going back to work tomorrow or this weekend.  Instead, I’ll be getting another dose of the rhythm, beauty and spirituality of the Camino.  This genuinely pure serenity has been ongoing since we left Burgos three weeks ago.  It’s rapidly going away the closer we get to Sarria.

We have made Camino friends and family along the way.  You’ve read about Heike from Aachen, Germany.  She’s now family.  We’ve traveled together from the start in Burgos and the four of us plan to walk into Santiago together this Sunday and drink Champagne in celebration.  There are other strong friendships that have been formed that Nancy and I plan to follow up with long after the Camino.  There’s something about walking side by side with someone for a few hours, a few days, a few weeks that really deepens a friendship.

The closer a pilgrim gets to Santiago, the larger the crowds and number of people walking the Camino.  Fighting being smug about the “newcomers” is real for me.  But then again, the Camino is all about perspective for me.  I may look at the people staring at Sarria as not “real” pilgrims because they’re only walking the “minimum” to get their Compostela in Santiago.  We started in Burgos more than 400 kilometers behind us!  Then I start thinking of all the pilgrims I’ve met who started in St. Jean Pied du Port, France.  They will have walked about 790 kilometers to Santiago.  Does that mean I’m not a “real” pilgrim.  How about Henrik and Heide who started from their home in France who will end up walking over 1,200 kilometers when they reach Santiago.  What does that make the people starting merely on the French border of Spain in St. Jean Pied du Port?  Then last night, Heike told us of a Dutchman she was talking to who stayed in the same place as we.  He started in his Dutch village which is 30 kilometers from Aachen, Germany.  He started walking to Santiago in mid March in knee deep snow.  When he reaches Santiago this Sunday or Monday, he will have walked over 2,500 kilometers!  What does that make the rest of us!  Perspective.  It’s a funny thing when you start really looking at it.

The atmosphere, however, is noticeably changing as we get closer to Santiago.  Yesterday, a few kilometers outside of Sarria I made way for a group of what appeared to be well off Spaniards out for a ride on their beautiful horses.  The horses were very healthy, well groomed and powerful, the riders looked like wealthy people in fine horse riding clothes (I know nothing about horse riding so I don’t know what proper horse riding clothes should look like except for one of those Zorro movies with Spanish elite on horses which is what they reminded me of).  Then the “twist” of the trip!  I’ve taken over 1,000 pictures on this Camino.  By now, I look ragged, weary, dirty, smelly, and hobbling along the path with my well worn clothes, backpack, beaten up boots, you get the picture……    Suddenly I hear a female voice saying in Castilian, “look, a real pilgrim!”  I turn to find this beautiful Spanish woman who could play the Catherine Zeta-Jones role in a Zorro movie ride by me in her gallant horse AS SHE TAKES A PICTURE OF ME!!!!  God I must look rough!

I reached Sarria, got my Credencial stamped at the local Pilgrim’s Information Office, sat outside and had my lunch of apple, muesli, and water then walked on to yesterday’s destination of Casa de Carmen in Barbadelo.  The last 5 kilometers was another grind as I ascended steadily leaving Sarria.  I was very hot, sweaty, and tired when I reached the Casa de Carmen.  However, the long day of hiking was well worth it.  I made great time doing the approx 25 kilometers in 5 hours of walking with two 30 minute breaks.  Casa de Carmen is a renovated 17th century farm house with it’s own 17th Century Chapel.  The garden sounding this old house with the views of the valley below was a spectacular way to spend the day.  Nancy, Heike and Andrea caught up with me an hour and 15 minutes later.

Today’s walk to Portomarin was an “easy” 20 kilometer walk.  I finally have blisters!  Heike has been walking with blisters for over a week.  Andrea has them the same place as I, our right foot, smallest toe.  Believe me, after 400 kilometers, I consider myself extremely lucky regarding physical wear and tear.  We passed the 100 kilometer marker this morning.  We’re 93 kilometers from Santiago.  Today I met a new couple who I’ve seen since O’Cebreiro.  The man has a very distinctive and sharp looking tatoo on the back of his left calf.  We started a conversation and I walked with them a few kilometers.  They are a very handsome, young Spanish couple named Raul and Belen.  Very nice people.  I hope to see them again on the Camino.

We’re now on the home stretch.  Just 4 more days of walking at the pace we’re going!  Hard to believe!  The Camino.  It’s not just the walk, it’s a way of life!  For those of you who remember me saying at work all the time that I’m “living the dream!”  Well now I say, don’t dream about your life, live your dreams!

Buen Camino, amigos!

A pilgrim’s water fountain near the peak of Alto do Riocabo about 5 kilometers outside Triacastela on the way to Sarria.

Fog covering the village of Montan in the lower valley on the way to Sarria.

The waymarkers and yellow arrows keeping us on the Camino are nothing short of outstanding.

Well to do Spaniards out for a ride on their horses.

The door of someone’s home as we enter Sarria.

The view of Sarria below as we make our ascent out of town.

Back in the back country 2 kilometers outside Sarria.

View from Casa de Carmen where we stayed last night outside the village of Barbadelo.

Casa de Carmen, a restored 17th Century farm house.

The Gomez-Ortmanns team enjoying the spectacular view from Casa de Carmen.

The altar inside the Chapel of St. Sylvestre at the Casa de Carmen.

The 100 kilometer marker to Santiago. We’re getting close!

Sharing the Camino with ever present cows in this part of Galicia.

The very handsome, young Spanish couple, Raul and Belen.

A new Alberque the Casa de Banderas run by friendly South Africans.

Crossing the long bridge into Portomarin with the large reservoir of Belesar behind them.

The Church in Portomarin.

The days are truly starting to blur.  Walking 8 straight days now has done that.  After taking an extra rest day in Leon and leaving that city on Monday, May 27, we’ve walked everyday since.  The approach we’ve used is that if we’ve had a really hard day, we’d follow that with a now “easy” short day.  For us, a really “easy” day is 10 – 16 kilometers (6.2 – 10 miles).  A tolerable day in which we can walk without any need for a follow up short day is now 20 – 23 kilometers (12.4 – 14.2 miles).  Throw in added difficulty factors such as going up a steep climb and facing really bad weather, then we really need to take it easy the next day.  That is why we only walked 10 kilometers today.

Yesterday was a really long, tough hike.  For my friends in Colorado, I was very curious to see how this hike would compare.  The walk would take us up over 2,100 feet of elevation gain over about 5 miles.  Some stretches were flat but other stretches really steep.  For those of you who have hiked up Hanging Lake near Glenwood Springs, imagine that steepness for about 3 to 4 times the distance.  There were other stretches almost as steep, like hiking to St. Mary’s Glacier near Idaho Springs, Colorado but 2 to 3 times the distance.  Over all, we walked about 7 hours of going up and 2 hours walking level or going down.  Bottom line is that after we completed the entire 15 mile hike, we were very glad to check in to our Alberque.  We started our day yesterday before 0800 Saturday morning in Ambasmestas and ended in a tiny dairy farm community of Fonfria.  We also crossed the border of Castilla y Leon into Galicia.  This region of Spain is absolutely beautiful with the mountainous terrain (OK, big hills in Colorado) with lush green colors and blue skies.  The Galician village of O’Cebreiro sitting near the top of our highest elevation gain of the day provided wide 360 degree vistas of open landscapes that came alive with many different varieties of wildflowers in bloom.  Unforgetable.

We had lunch in O’Cebreiro and hiked another 12 kilometers to Fonfria.

You’ve heard me mention before the incredible spirit alive on the Camino.  Let me share with you another example that occurred yesterday.  During a very steep ascent, I told our adopted Camino family member, Heike, that this reminded me of Hanging Lake near Glenwood Springs only that it is longer.  About 20 minutes after that discussion, we caught up with two ladies sitting on a short stone wall catching their breath.  I said hi to them in which they responded with a smile saying Buen Camino.  I immediately heard their American accent and asked them where they’re from.  “Oh we’re from Colorado.”  I responded where in Colorado are you from, in which they both said, “Glenwood Springs.”  What are the odds that in the wilderness of climbing this Spanish mountain I would mention to Heike this reminded me of a place near Glenwood Springs, and literally, within minutes, we meet two ladies, from Glenwood Springs!  The Camino is magical producing magical moments everyday!

The Alberque we stayed in last night, in the tiny village of Fonfria, is a family run business. The pattern I’m seeing is that these people work like slaves, very long hours everyday, dealing with people from all over the world, most who don’t speak Spanish, and they are generally very helpful and cheerful.  They usually close up between 10 – 11pm and the same people open up for breakfast between 6 to 7 am.  Amazing!  In Ambasmestas we met Luis, a tall, handsome blonde Spaniard from Ponferrada who not only checked us into the hotel, but was also the waiter!  I told him how hard he and the other Spaniards work supporting the Pilgrims and he, like all the other Spaniards I’ve complemented in a similar manner, was very humble and gracious.  He was thankful for having a job and also very conscientious of the terrible unemployment of Spain’s young adults.  In Fonfria, a very youthful looking couple, Miguel and Lola Arias run the family alberque business in which they two were serving all the pilgrim’s needs including running the bar and then cleaning and  sweeping at 11pm to get ready to serve at 6am in the morning.  I’ve seen this everywhere on the Camino.  In the Vilasante Hostel we’re staying in this evening, the 3rd generation owner, Pepin Lopez Valcarce, is constantly attentive and helpful to our needs.  This country has amazing people supporting the Camino.

For days now we’ve been running into other pilgrims we’ve been seeing for over a week, some longer.  Jay from the UK, Inaki from the Basque, Marc from Catalonia, Henrik and Heide from Denmark who have already walked over 1,200 kilometers, Britta from Denmark walking her 3rd Camino, Diane and Nanell  from the UK, Merle and his son, Adam who have been walking from France, Wayne and Cathy Foster from Newfoundland, Canada.  It will be a fascinating experience to see some or all of them when we arrive at Santiago.  Speaking of Santiago, we are now 134 kilometers away!

We passed through some very remote dairy country today.  There was a point in which you couldn’t see or hear anyone.  Heike mentioned that she was going to stop to change her pants since the one’s she’s wearing was irritating her.  Nancy, Andrea and I continue to walk down this empty path to give Heike some privacy.  As soon as she started to take off her pants, out of nowhere a group of Spanish pilgrims on bikes appears next to Heike.  She waits for them to continue, once they leave, out of nowhere, a spanish dairy farmer appears.  Where did these people come from!  That’s the Camino!

Tomorrow we pass Sarria which is the traditional starting point for the shortest distance one can walk (100 kilometers, although Sarria is 115 kilometers from Santiago) to receive the Campostella.  If all goes well, we’ll be arriving at Santiago this coming Sunday, June 9th.

With all the pilgrims walking the Camino, securing a place to sleep is getting more difficult the closer one gets to Santiago.  The traffic is picking up very noticeably.  In Triacastela, the town we’re in this evening, all beds were taken by 4pm.

The weather the last few days has been absolutely perfect for walking.  Cool in the morning, warm in the afternoon and sunny throughout the day.  Great weather is expected to continue to Thursday.  We leave early tomorrow for a 23 kilometer walk to a restored 17th Century farmhouse with terrace and chapel Capela de San Silvestre in the village of Barbadelo, the Casa de Carmen.  We’re looking forward to the walk!

Buen Camino!

Food is still really good and plentiful on the Camino.

This part of Galicia is full of small, family owned dairy farms.

Pilgrims experiencing the Camino on bikes and watching Heike change her pants!

A dairy farmer was leading his herd of dairy cattle through a village with his German Shepherd when another Shepherd pops his head out the window to join in the barking!

We had an excellent lunch at a super restaurant in the village of Filloval.

Jay from the UK and Marc from Barcelona. He’s a real champion as he’s been hobbling badly for days but promises to make it to Santiago.

More than 800 year old chestnut tree as we enter Triacastela.

Very old Romanesque Church as we enter Triacastela

Nancy and Andrea enjoying a well deserved Sangria today in Triacastela.

Wayne, Sharon, Lauren and Cathy from Canada.

Joe and Heike enjoying a beer while Nancy and Andrea enjoying their Sangria.

I missed posting a blog last night. The wireless router must not have had the bandwidth to handle all the people attempting to be online. It was impossible to stay online.

A lot has happened since we left Ponferrada.

Everyone has their own reason to walk the Camino de Santiago. There are those who are doing this for religious or spiritual reasons, some cultural, others because they’re having a milestone birthday or recently retired. The reasons are many and varied. There are many who started their Camino at the traditional starting point in St. Jean Pied du Port on the French side of the Spanish/French border. Most start somewhere in Spain.  There are also those who take a “purist” approach in that you must start in France, carry your backpack at all times and walk every step of the way, and make no prior sleeping arrangements.  Not me. I subscribe to the notion that each of us must experience the Camino in their own way, preferably in a way that allows for the fullest, most meaningful memories for each individual.  As I have mentioned in past blogs, the dynamics are completely different of traveling alone (and whether you’re male or female), if you’re traveling with your spouse, child or both.  We started the Camino as “purists” at least “purists” starting in Burgos and not St Jean Pied du Port.  Our 1st three nights were in alberques and taking available beds that are co-ed dormitory style.  This approach, which is undertaken by most of the pilgrims, leaves precious little privacy, and opens one to a symphony of world class, teeth rattling  snorers.  It is not a myth.  The community style meals also creates a “big family” style gathering in which you may sit next to almost anyone from any nationality in the world.  This is all good since nearly every pilgrim I’ve encountered, and being the flaming extravert that I am, I’ve encountered MANY pilgrims, all seem to have a friendly, open behavior.  The Camino, seems to attract these type of people.

With the high number of pilgrims currently walking the Camino and the fact that the closer one gets to Santiago the more difficult it becomes to find a bed if you arrive into a village in the late afternoon  and the fact that I’m traveling with my wife and daughter and adopted Camino baby sister, Heike, my approach has changed from “purist” to “pragmatic.”  Here’s what else I’ve learned.  I don’t really like walking.  Never did!  None of the reasons that motivated me to experience the Camino does not include walking.  Here’s the reality of my disdain for walking any appreciable distance.  I have extremely flat feet.  Virtually no arch.  At the end of each day of walking for hours, my feet are in real pain.  They hurt and ache for hours.  Miraculously, each morning, they feel normal again so I lace up my hiking boots and go walking again.  So here’s my confession which for me speaks to pragmatism.  I’m looking at combining the best possibility of ensuring we have a place to stay each night, that none of us over exert ourselves so that we’re able to walk the Camino and finish in Santiago.  Since Ponferrada we “broke” a few rules,  We took the bus 23 kilometers to a small town that would allow us a 16 kilometer  walk to a village that would set us up for a long 26 kilometer walk over a very steep climb and dramatic elevation gain to would lead us into Galicia.  So yesterday, after our short bus ride we walked 16 kilometers and today 26.  We’re now in Galicia!  We feel like we’re on the home stretch!  Tomorrow I should have more time to blog and to include new pictures.  I’m typing literally in the dark since the common room with the wireless router is officially closed and I’m translating for a young Spaniard and a young English woman who are clearly interested in each other but neither speaks the other’s language.  I will try to post some pictures I took of Galicia today. The views, I’m afraid, cannot be adequately expressed by my pictures.

We made it safely to the very rural village of Fonfria.  It was a very long walk, 9 hours including our rest time and we’re beat!

Buen Camino!

Steep climb as we approach O’Cebreiro.

Significant marker showing we are now in Galicai!

The Galician countryside is very beautiful. I wish you could see the depth and expanse of this countryside.

In the village of O’Cebreiro in Galicia.

Typical Galician structure

You’re probably tired by now reading how terrible the weather has been by Spain standards for this time of year. Every morning on our 15 day walk has been cold.  This n morning was chilly and by our first break a few kilometers outside of Riego de Ambros, the cold finally gave way to the Spanish sun!  In a beautiful little opening in the woods we took off our fleeces cold cold weather clothes as Andrea was playing a Gloria Estefan Cuban tune. Nancy and I broke out into a few salsa steps as Andrea and Heike laughingly watched and two French women only a few meters away sitting under a tree watched us in bewilderment. People don’t salsa on the Camino! Well, I guess they do now!

For the rest of the day, the weather was glorious. Not a cloud in the sky that was so blue you’d  think it was painted.  We stopped in Molinaseca for a cafe con leche. This is a very old town first built by Romans then became part of the original trail of the Camino de Santiago.  We decided to stay in the much larger town of Ponferrada today to keep our legs fresh for the steepest climb on the Camino – O’Cebreiro the day after tomorrow.  When we descend that mountain we’ll be in Galicia!

At this pace, by this Sunday we’ll only be about 140 kilometers from Santiago!

There is a German phrase I absolutely love which Heike taught us. When someone traveling under ideal conditions, you respond with a partial sentence of “Wenn engel Reise.”  In English that means “when angels travel.”  The angels were certainly traveling with us today! We stopped in Ponferrada, secured rooms in the Hostel San Miguel and had time to eat a delicious lunch followed by a visit to an ice cream shop. We did this sitting outside in the sun! We then visited the Basilica de la Encina, is historically significant 16th Century church and the Castillo de Los Temlarios, a truly impressive 12th Century castle in which Templar Knights protected the area and pilgrims on their way to Santiago. We head off tomorrow for a long day.  Can’t wait!

Starting off the morning in Riego de Ambros.

Heading down a steep hill toward Molinaseca. We have definitely left the Meseta!

Molinaseca as we approach from the hills.

Medieval bridge over the Rio Boeza as we enter Molinaseca.

Notice the short sleeves? It’s warm today!

We went over those mountains just two days ago!

In the suburbs of Ponferrada.

Shepherd and his dogs leading a flock of sheep across the street.

The 12th Century Templar Castle – Castillo de Los Templarios.

Andrea enjoying a beer with her Dad.

Decadent ice cream dessert after a good hike!

The Basilica de la Encina.

statue of a Templar Knight outside the Basilica.

This will be a very short blog. I’m exhausted from today’s 21.5 kilometer hike over the highest point on the Camino which is the Iron Cross (La Cruz de Ferro). It is here that the pilgrim will place a stone or object that they have been carrying with them on the Camino which could also symbolize something they’ve been carrying with them for a long time before the Camino. The pilgrim places this object at the foot of the cross immediately lightening one’s weight they’ve been carrying. Pilgrims have been doing this for centuries. Heike, Nancy, Andrea and I were able to take part in this very moving tradition today.

We made it to to top of the Camino’s path today and placed our objects at the foot of the Cross.  We then had to negotiate a steep descent along the path to get to today’s destination. Nancy’s knees held up remarkably well.  Heike and Andrea seemed to get stronger throughout the day. I was the “soft egg” today as I became physically worn out by the time we stopped for the day.

Last comments are that the beauty of the landscape we walked through today was absolutely breath taking. How fortunate are we to see such beautiful country that few people are able to take in! I was also surprised by the emotions evoked while at the cross today. I will close with a few photos taken today. I plan to explain at a later blog.

We had breakfast this morning at the excellent Hostel La Coruna, a family run business by a very energetic, attentive and friendly staff.  “Visi” who speaks excellent english checked us in yesterday with a big smile.  Her sister, Maria, also ensured that we would have a place to stay for today,  Visi’s twin brother, Santiago, gave us professional and friendly service as he was our waiter last evening. The rooms were very clean and well maintained.  Visi asked me to say hi to Cristina at the Hosteria El Refugio in Rabanal. More on that later.

Since leaving Burgos on May 17th, we have not had a single warm morning.  Everyday has started out very cold.  The Camino teaches us something new everyday and each day presents a new challenge.  Last night we all felt confident in making the 21.4 km (13,3 miles) walk today.  We were all feeling good.  We were strong  today.  Then we walked the Camino.  Leaving Astorga this morning was another typical Camino morning walking in the cold.  As we left the  city and started on the rural path the wind started.  It’s one thing walking more than 21 kilometers on a steady incline as we approach the mountainous region bordering the Leon province and Galicia. However, just as we were expecting an “easy” walk today, a cold biting, relentless wind right into our faces started that did not end all day.  It was constant.  It never seemed to lessen.  It was another reminder that the Camino has something new and unexpected for us every day.

For the first time in a week I felt great!  No pain in my feet.  My legs, calves, knees, lower back all felt fine.  The pace I set for myself today was the fastest yet,  I was doing over 8 kilometers an hour which may not sound like much but it was a pace in which I was passing many fellow pilgrims.

There are many pilgrims now.  It seems that the closer we get to Santiago, the more pilgrims we see on the Camino.   I’ve heard that there are at least 14,000 pilgrims currently walking the Camino.  All I know is that it is now at the point that I feel compelled to book reservations each day for the next destination.  If I were traveling alone I feel intrigued by the idea of “letting the Camino come to me.”  With my very serviceable Spanish, I feel confident I could find  at least a mattress on a church floor in these villages.  However, traveling with Nancy, Andrea and Heike, it seems more likely that we may not find 4 beds or a combination of 2 rooms that accommodate us if we arrive at our destination each day by 2pm.  Many of the villages we’ve stayed at are fully booked by 4 or 5pm.  We’re finding that 20 – 25 kilometers a day are pretty much our max distance.  30 to 40 kilometers renders us nearly useless the next day,  Therefore, reaching a village at the end of the day only to find that we need to walk another 7 to 10 kilometers to find an available bed doesn’t sound very appealing.  That’s not a chance I’m willing to take.  Maybe I’m not walking the Camino as a “purist” but I keep going back to my belief that each of us must experience the Camino in our own way,  If it means making reservations in advance when we can or taking a bus for a short distance to save our legs for the mountains ahead then that’s OK. The idea, at least for me, is to experience this Camino as fully as I can with my wife, daughter, and now our dear Camino friend Heike.  The idea is to finish in Santiago.  Blowing out a knee, wearing out our legs, twisting an ankle, injuring ourselves in a seemingly endless array of possibilities rendering ourselves incapable of reaching Santiago doesn’t make sense to me.

So today with the wind blowing coldly, relentlessly and bitterly we kept walking.  This morning we were joined by a friendly German lady Gabby who has been walking alone.  A lot of people walk alone on the Camino but I find that even harder to do.  Especially days like today.  Fighting the cold and the wind that just wouldn’t end I was alone in my thoughts.  I prayed for those I know who are not doing well, I gave thanks for all that I’ve been given which is more than I’ve prayed for and much more than I’ve ever deserved.  Then for our first real, sit down break we stopped in the village of Santa Catalina de Somoza.  Just a few days ago as we entered the village of Vila de Manzarife and we were settling into having lunch at a very pilgrim friendly alberque, the two very  tired ladies came into the courtyard asking for directions to another alberque in this village. I could see the familial resemblance so I assumed that this was a mother-daughter couple experiencing the Camino.  Apparently, they had become lost, the older lady of the two had her backpack shipped to an alberque in this village in which they didn’t know where it was.  They also didn’t know if the alberque where the older lady’s backpacked had been transported had any available beds.  They also didn’t speak Spanish.  I offered to ask if there were any beds left in this alberque.  I also remembered where the alberque is in which her backpack was shipped.  No beds left at this alberque.  I then gave them directions to the alberque where the backpack was.  I felt so bad for them.  They looked weary and I sincerely hoped that they would find two beds at the other alberque.  I wasn’t sure if I’d ever see them again.

As is the way of the Camino, as we entered a restaurant for cafe con leche, I saw the two ladies sitting down to do the same.  I went to them and asked if they found beds that night.  They had, at the same alberque in which the backpack was shipped.  I sat and visited with them for a few minutes.  As it turns out, they are a mother and daughter from Glascow, Scotland walking the Camino together.  You already know about the miserable day we’re having with the relentless, cold, biting wind.  The rest of my day was made easy thanks to the conversation I had with these remarkable ladies.  Sharon, the mother, spoke in a soft, but strong Glascow accent.  She shared with me an incredible story of tragic losses in her family and personal health issues.  Yet, she spoke in such a gentle, peaceful manner in which the love she has for her daughter and family, that I was nearly moved to tears.  By this point, her daughter, Avril, arrived with their drinks.  I told her that her mother is an inspiration and that she must be very proud of her.  Avril smiled and responded that she tells her mother every day how proud she is of her.  As you look at their faces, you can see how beautiful they both are both physically but in spirit.  I will not forget these two ladies and I pray for their safe travels and return to their home in Scotland.  They will not be forgotten.

The wind never let up.  We crossed the Turienzo river over the Puente de Panote.  We followed a well marked dirt path with a moderately steep incline.  To our right was a fence separating us from so many trees that it blocked the wind.  For the first time in hours, we didn’t have that cold wind beating us.  Along this path with the trees blocking the wind was also silence.  It was still.  Comfortingly still,  Then I noticed the crosses,  Along this fence people had put on makeshift crosses interlacing the wood along the fence wires,  As far as one could see there were crosses of every shape and size all determined by whatever loose wood was available along the path.  Nancy stopped for a moment and made her own makeshift cross.  She said a prayer for all those in our family who have already passed before us.  How many years have these crosses been there?  How many pilgrims take the time to stop and put up their own cross?

We continued along this path for what seemed like another kilometer or so then we were led back to the road, away from the protection of the trees (and the crosses?) and the wind resumed until we reach our destination for the day, Rabanal del Camino.

It started to rain.  We walked through the village to the Hostel del Refugio where we are staying for the evening.  This is a beautiful property which reminds me of a fine Colorado Ski Lodge.  Christina who checked us in, like her friend Visi in Astorga, was extremely helpful and cheerful.

Today was hard in so many ways.  Walking in the strong, cold, relentless,  biting wind can wear on you both physically and emotionally.  Heike was really bothered by this.  However, her sister,m Nicole and best friend Yvonne along with her new Colorado family all encouraged her.  Were here for each other!  We’ve also now passed the midway point between Burgos and Santiago.  We are now 243 kilometers from Santiago!

Tomorrow morning we should walk over the highest point on the Camino, the Cruz de Ferro.  We plan to stay in the village of Riego de Ambros tomorrow.  Since we’ll still be in the mountains and in a small village, I don’t know if we’ll have wifi connection.  It may be another day before I can post another blog.

Buen Camino!

View this morning as we left Astorga and into the countryside.

Two beautiful ladies from Glascow, Scotland. Avril and her mother Sharon.

A German father sharing the wonderful gift of the Camino with his daughter and son.

Nancy putting up her own cross on a fence line filled with crosses.

An example of the hundreds of makeshift crosses we saw today.

Our destination today. Rabanal del Camino.

Today is actually the 12th day since we left Burgos on Friday, May 17th, 236 kilometers ago.  Although we have developed our “walking legs” we no longer are sporting that fresh look and skip in our step.  After this distance and this amount of walking, we are looking more like the peregrinos (spanish word for pilgrims) we saw in Burgos who had started in France.  Although this motley crew of 3 Americans and 1 German continue to laugh and smile, there is a weariness and limp in our step by the time we reach each day’s destined stop.  We are definitely blending in with the “veteran” peregrinos.  Last night was actually harder for Heike and me than the 40 kilometer walk we did a few days ago.  Nancy and Andrea having been walking without their backpacks for over a week (we’re transporting them through a spanish company that provides this service) plus their 4 day rest in Leon really showed yesterday.  Although Heike and I spent an extra day in Leon to rest, yesterday’s 30 kilometer walk proved challenging for us.  Nancy and  Andrea kept a healthy, brisk pace the entire day.  It was great to see because I was really concerned over Nancy’s knee and Andrea’s hips tightening.  I pray they continue to keep their energy and health.  Nancy’s now fighting a cold but that’s par for the course.  No one seems to get through the Camino unscathed. We left the vibrant and exciting city of Leon yesterday morning and when we passed the industrial part of the city, the camino quickly led us to wide open rural spaces.  What a contrast!  We made several stops along the way and had a very good lunch in the village of Vilar de Mazarife which had a little plaza with a interesting statue dedicated to St. James.  Knowing that there was not a taxi service in the village nor the remaining 14.5 kilometers to our day’s destination, Hospital de Orbigo, I was getting concerned about Nancy’s knees. As is becoming standard on the Camino, a taxi was parked right at the entrance of the village as the taxi man was picking up a fare.  I spoke to him and he gave me his business card in case I needed to call him.  I know that many people speak of the sweet spirit found on the Camino.  I also understand that most people walking the camino do not do so for religious reasons.  However, given the string of “coincidental signs” I’ve already seen, and my own personal faith, it looks more and more to me that there’s something more at play here.  It’s really amazing to witness if you have your eyes open. We reached Hospital de Orbigo around 6 in the evening.  Many hours after most pilgrims have checked in for the day.  We crossed the Puente de Orbigo which is one of the longest and most well preserved ancient bridges in all of Spain.  There was once a Roman bridge built on this site but in the 13th Century a “newer” bridge was built over it.  There is a very interesting historical significance to this bridge in medieval times.  Andrea and Nancy gracefully crossed the bridge while Heike and I hobbled behind them.  At least we treated ourselves at staying at a “posh” bed and breakfast (by most standards – not just camino standards) at the El Caminero. Astorga, today’s destination was obnly 18 kilometers from Hospital de Orbigo.  This is one of the larger cities on the Camino and another with many historical attributes.  The Plaza Catedral is absolutely marvelous.  The Bishop’s Palace is another work by the incomparable Gaudi.  We found a very active and packed market ongoing in the Plaza Mayor which has a 17th Century Baroque city hall (Ayuntamiento) with a famous clock which is struck by a male and female mechanical figure.  It reminded me a little bit of the Ratskeller in Munich.   Two more thoughts.  The pilgrims menu offered at nearly every restaurant and alberque along the Camino is too much to eat.  The typical menu is a choice of three different “primero” which is usually a full plate, followed by a choice of three different “secundo” which is also a full plate, then a choice of one of three different desserts.  You have the option of water (usually a bottle if there’s 3 or 4 of us) and/or a bottle of wine.  Too much food!  The other random thought is that in nearly every restaurant you’ll find a large flat screen TV.  It doesn’t usually have sports or news on, it’s regular programming.  TV shows one would normally see during the day on TV.  This is not something you’ll likely see in the States, nor in Germany, according to Heike. Tomorrow we start heading to the mountains in which we’ll walk a gradual 20 kilometer ascent to our next destination, Rabanal del Camino.  When we reach there, we will have passed the halfway point between Burgos and Santiago!  The day after tomorrow we’ll be challenged with the hike up highest point of the entire Camino, the Cruz de Ferro and the very steep descent down to Molinaseca. I will keep you posted as best I can!

Gaudi’s famous Casa de Botines in Leon, Sunday night

Country scene somewhere between Leon and Vilar de Mazarife.

Statue honoring pilgrims in Vilar de Mazarife.

Andrea and Heike out for a walk.

The medieval Puente de Orbigo.

Another impressive example of Gaudi’s work, the Bishop’s Palace in Astorga.

The irrepressible Danes, Henrik and Heide, who have already walked over 1,000 kilometers from their French home.

This will be a very short post with no pictures.  I hope to do much better tomorrow!  We left Leon this morning and nearly 30 Kilometers later, we find ourselves in the village of Hospital del Orbigo.  We walked over an ancient, cobblestone bridge to get to this town which has a rich medieval history of knights of the templar and jousting, etc.  Tomorrow we arrive in Astorga.  The mountains we’ll start climbing this Wednesday are already in view!  Tomorrow should be relatively easy, only 18 kilometers (about 10 miles) then we have two consecutive days of hiking to the highest point on the Camino Frances.  By this Wednesday we’ll have traveled more than half  way from Burgos to Santiago – more than 250 kilometers!

The extra days in Leon really helped Nancy and Andrea as they kept a healthy, steady pace today for the entire distance.  Heike and I are the two with very weary and painful feet.  I’m hobbling around right now like an old man.  Heike remains in the Champions League.  I’ve been pushed down to the Bundesliga!  She’s tough and still walking strong.

We had a very good meal this evening but are absolutely exhausted.  The wifi connection where we are staying is also dodgy at best.  Therefore, I won’t try to load any photos.  However, with a little luck in Astorga tomorrow, I hope to post a proper blog with photos.

We are all doing well.  We now believe that at the pace we’re going, we should be in Santiago by June 11.  We’ll see.

Thanks to all of you following this website and all the encouraging comments and prayers we’re receiving.  It really helps us and encourages us.

One thing I can share with those who are considering the Camino.  It is a deeply rich experience.  However, what I have learned so far is that reading about it is one thing, actually doing it is something altogether.  It will challenge you physically, emotionally and spiritually..

Nancy, Andrea and I capped our Saturday evening by joining Heike to watch the European Cup Championship between Dortmund and Bayern Muenchen.  Bayern won a close and well played match 2-1.  There were also many other activities going on this weekend in Leon.  Many children were celebrating their first Communion.  There were many young Spanish girls wearing their communion dresses with the families and friends.  After the football match we walked to 11th Century San Isidoro Basilica Church where they had a wonderful show in which the history of Leon was illuminated on the church walls stirring music in the background.  We all had a very good time. Nancy, Andrea and I started our Sunday in Leon by going to Mass at one of the chapels adjoining the magnificent 13th Century Gothic Cathedral Pulchra Leonina in the Plaza Regal.   Of course, the Mass was in Spanish but the liturgy is the same regardless of the language.  We were able to worship in a church today that is older than any found in the USA.  At the Plaza we saw other fellow pilgrims that we’ve been running into the last week. We took a picture of our small group of camino friends in which the UK, Japan, Italy, India, Basque, Germany and the US are represented.  Typical gathering for the Camino!   This evening was a quite gathering in which we stopped for a beer in an Irish Pub in the Plaza Mayor then had Pizza and Chianti at an Italian Restaurant near the Cathedral.  Helene from Switzerland, Renate and Heike from Germany, Britta from Denmark and Joe, Nancy and Andrea from Colorado made up the group. Tomorrow we’re back on the Camino with Hospital de Orbigo our goal.  We really needed this weekend in Leon to recuperate as we have many more kilometers in front of us. I hope to make another blog tomorrow. Buen Camino!

The magnificent cathedral in Leon.

Britta from Denmark walking her 3rd Camino!

Camino friends continuing to meet along the way.

I missed another post, I’ll explain. With Nancy and Andrea safely off to Leon this past Thursday morning, Heike and I started the short 14 kilometer hike to Sahagun.  Our strategy was that we knew Friday would be our longest hiking attempt so far – 30 kilometers, so we figured an easy walk on Thursday, get good rest for the two longer days ahead.  As it is with Camino friends that last at least a few day, one gets to know of the life of the other.  We have discussed nearly every topic imaginable.  One of the topics has to do with the German language.  Heike has been able to help me a lot with improving my German and helping me understand a lot of the nuances of the German language.  One example is that in German, a man who is not very “manly” is known as a “soft egg” or a man “who can only take warm showers.” We arrived in Sahagun late Thursday morning and registered at the Monasterio de Santa Cruz which is a convent of Benectine nuns.  It is run by volunteers of a Madrid association. This is a large, beautiful old building which is very clean.  However, I quickly found that it was very cold.  One thing I’m also quickly finding is the uncanny spirit that I’m finding on the Camino.  I don’t think it’s coincidental all the little “signs” I’ve been seeing along the way.  A few days ago when walking on the Roman Road for more than 15 kilometers of wilderness we approached the village of Caldadilla de la Cueza which appeared to be a ghost town.  By the way, that’s typical of the many villages we walk through.  No sounds and no one in sight.  It looks like a movie set.  Anyway, Nancy, Andrea, Heike and I are walking through this village needing to stop for a cafe con leche and some rest.  Heike ask’s “where is there a bar in this town?”  and just as she asks that we notice for the first time on the Camino we see writing on the street that doesn’t become apparent for a few more steps.  It has the words painted “B A R” with an arrow pointing to turn left! So the routine has been when you check into your alberque or hostel or hotel, you bath, wash your clothes and rest or sightsee in the village.  My room in the monastery, though immaculate is like walking into a refrigerator.  I get into the bath tub to take my shower and wouldn’t you know…   there’s no hot water!  I start laughing and thinking of what Heike shared with me only hours before….. “real men take cold showers”.  The Camino!  It teaches and teaches!  Well, the challenge was on.  I wet my  body, soaped up, and rinsed.  Just as I was finishing rinsing, the water became warm!  However, I proved that I was not a   soft egg or a man who only takes warm showers! Friday morning Heike and I started on our long day’s trek to Reliegos which is 30 kilometers away.  There are options to get to this village.  One way, which is easier on the feet and knees is along the Roman Road instead of walking parallel with the highway.  We opted for the Roman Road.  We veered away from the path most people were taking and went toward the village Calzada de Coto.  Another ghost town with not a soul, cat or dog in sight.  We then found a fork on the road.  No yellow arrows or scallop seashell waymarkers which is extremely rare along the Camino.  One sign leading left said “Camino Frances” while the other pointed to a place that was not on our map.  We ARE on the Camino Frances so we went left.  We walked and walked and walked.  No yellow arrows.  We then saw a sign on the ground pointing left again toward a bridge that would put us  back on the highway path we were trying to avoid.  We continued forward and walked and walked.  The  dirt path we were on lead right to a dead end in front of a forest!  Oops!  Not good!  We turned around and started backtracking.  We stopped and looked at our map again.  On the map, it shows that the Roman Road has a bridge that goes over railroad tracks.  We scanned the horizon.  At a distance along the horizon we saw what looked like a bridge but was it over railroad tracks?  We looked all around trying to decide if we should back track to the village we left a while ago with the fork on the road.  If so, how sure were we that the bridge we saw was really over railroad tracks.  Just then, we saw a passenger train streaming along the horizon heading right toward the bridge!  The spirit of the Camino really is alive! Heading back to the village with the confusing fork we saw 3 people coming along the same path as us.  They too used the same rationale as us.  They turned out to be Germans.  Heike explained to them that this road led to a dead end.  We all then decided to take the sure path and walked toward the road that took us back to the highway.  The path is is much harder on the feet and knees. We took our first break at Bercianos del Real Camino for a cafe con leche.  Refreshed, we headed to El Burgo Ranero for lunch.  A mere 7.6 kilometers away.  At El Burgo we had an excellent lunch.  We left for Reliegos thinking it was only 12 kilometers away.  We were dead wrong.  By now, we’re developing a good sense of how long it takes to walk 4 to 5 kilometers.  We’ve now been walking 8 days in a row.  Every crest we went over, every turn around a bend in the road, we were expecting Reliegos.  No Reliegos.  We kept walking,  Fortunately, the weather was spectacular.  Not a cloud in the sky, gorgeous blue heaven, and snow capped mountains framing the northern horizon.  We stopped.  Drank water, ate a few bites of chocolate and almonds and walked on.  We finally passed a landmark that was on our map.  An airfield to the south.  By now we were very tired, Heike’s blistered feet was causing pain.  My knee started to bother me.  We kept on.  We encouraged each other, making each other laugh.  Reminding ourselves that all the pilgrims who stopped for the day at the previous village are a bunch of “soft eggs” and that only champions hike to Reliegos,  Out of no where we saw two Spanish workers putting together an irrigation canal.  I asked how far are we to Reliegos?  The both responded in unison, “4 to 5 more kilometers.”  They had to be joking!  We’ve already walked what seemed like 30 kilometers already.  As we walked away, Heike said, “I hope those men don’t have a good sense of distance.”  We laughed again and talked about gallows humor.  Germans have that too! 5 kilometers away we reached Reliegos.  Exhausted.  Feet aching.  Knees swollen.  We checked into the La Parada Alberque.  It is a very new alberque.  We checked into the room and went to the patio to rest a bit before we found a place to eat. More than 30 years ago while serving in the US Air Force I was assigned to Hahn Air Base, Germany.  Since I was a boy I always wanted to visit Germany.  I have been fascinated with the richness of German culture and its contributions to science, music, literature and theology.  My three years in Germany was a wonderful experience in which Nancy and I made good friends and lasting, positive memories.  Most Germans may not be as quickly, demonstrably affectionate as Latins but I can assure you, my experience in Germany taught me that when you make friends in Germany they are as caring and generous as anyone you’ll ever find. We went to the patio to rest our weary feet.  There were a group of Germans sitting together.  We didn’t know them except that we had seen them along the Camino.  One of them, Horst, walked up to us and asked if we’d like a bowl of noodle soup.  We said yes. Within a few minutes they had us at their table sharing the food the made for the day and the wine they bought.  It was a wonderful way to recover from our long day’s walk.  After talking to them we realized that we had walked 40 kilometers that day!  That’s nearly 25 miles!  I hope I can recall their names but these wonderful, generous and friendly Germans reminded me of the Germany I knew.  Thank you Horst for your generous offer of soup when we needed it most.  Thank you Renate, Natasha, Dieter and Volker for your hospitality! Heike and I took our bathes walked to the nearest Alberque/Restaurant that was still open and as we were entering the Alberque, we saw standing at one of the balconies, Liz and her daughter, Celina from Naples, Florida.  We met them a few days ago and have been meeting up with them, by chance?, the last few days.  They had already eaten but joined us as we ate. It was a very nice finish to a very long day. We arrived at Leon today at 1130.  Meeting Nancy and Andrea at the hotel we’re staying at was an absolute treat.  I missed them very much.  We’ll stay in Leon for an extra day of rest before resuming our Camino. We hope to join Heike this evening to watch the European Championship Cub between Dortmund and Bayern Muenchen.  First time two teams from the same country playing for the title! We’ve reached Leon!  164 kilometers done. 336 to go! Buen Camino!

Nancy, Andrea, Monse, Celina, Liz, and Heike

My room in the Monastery in Sahagun.

Pilgrims experiencing the Camino on bicycles,

The beautiful Spanish Meseta with snow capped mountains along the northern horizon.

The friendly and generous Germans who perfectly capped our long 40 km day – Volker, Dieter, Natasha, Renata, and Horst.

A very affectionate dog wishing Heike a
Buen Camino as we leave Reliegos

A modern statue paying homage to weary pilgrims on the Camino.