Day 25 – The Pilgrim’s Mass and Camino Friends

Exhausted and very calmly taking in the euphoria of being on the Praza Obradoiro this past Sunday afternoon after our 24 day walk, we saw our Danish Camino friends Henrik and Heide who started their Camino from their French home more than 1,200 kilometers away.  They started their Camino on April 6 and arrived in Santiago on June 8, the day before we did.  We asked if they had attended the Pilgrim’s Mass held at the Cathedral everyday at noon.  Henrik shared with us the unexpected pouring of emotions when he and Heide first entered the plaza in front of the Cathedral.  It was a surprise to both of them.  After a days rest, they looked surprisingly refreshed.  They are a very handsome and friendly couple.  Heide was celebrating her birthday on Monday, June 10.  Heide recommended that if we go to the Pilgrim’s Mass to not sit facing the Altar but to sit on either side of the Altar so that we would have a better view of the Botafumeiro if it was to be used during the Mass.  The floor plan of the pews in many Catholic Churches are shaped like a cross if one were looking down.  Therefore, the preferred seating would be on the “arms” of the cross.  That would make sense because the Botafumeiro is swung “sideways” running perpendicular to the altar.   Nancy, Heike, Andrea and I all agreed to meet at the front of the Cathedral at 1045 Monday morning for the noon Mass. We entered the Cathedral and looked for a pew.  Although it was about 1050 when we sat down, the pews were already filling up.  As it turned out, we could not have picked a better place to sit.  We had an unobstructed view of the Altar and Botafumeiro.  The Botafumeiro is likely the largest Thurible in the world.  The Thurible is the incense burner hung from chains in which the priest will use during the Mass to dispense the incense around the Altar.  We’ve heard that this massive Thurible the “Botafumeiro” was originally used as a fumigation of the many sweaty, stinking, and in some cases, disease-ridden pilgrims attending this Mass.  Hopefully, that is no longer the case for the pilgrims present at this Mass. The first pew that was available to us allowed a very memorable view of the Altar and Botafumeiro in front of us and the statue of St. James, the Moorslayer, to our right.  With the more than hour wait before the start of the Mass, we all had a very good opportunity to pray, reflect, and soak in the sights and sounds of the Cathedral.  For me, it was a wonderfully spiritual way to prepare myself for the Mass.  As people started to find the remaining seats, I saw Marc, from Barcelona approach.  Marc was the pilgrim we met about a week ago as we entered Galicia.  He had twisted his ankle badly climbing up the mountain to O’ Cebreiro and was hobbling painfully for days.  Everytime I saw him I asked him about his feet and ankle.  Each time I saw him he thanked me for asking and responded that his ankle was getting better.  The last time I saw him a few days ago, he said that he would crawl to Santiago if he had to.  He made it!  The pews were starting to fill but there was space for Marc in the pew behind us.  A French woman, on her third Camino filled the remaining space on our pew and sat next to me.  Her first pilgrimage to Santiago was 35 years ago with her parents.  The drove the Camino Frances by car but did attend the Pilgrim’s Mass.  She said there were far less pilgrims then than now.  The Cathedral continued to fill with people from all over the world. Gabby, our Camino friend from Germany who we walked with for several days and shared  a few meals with approached our pew with a big smile.  We all hugged and kissed her.  There was one remaining space in the pew behind us next to Marc. No surprise, right?!?! A Spanish woman working at the Cathedral made an announcement stating that pictures can only be taken without a flash.  This has been standard at all the Cathedrals and churches we’ve visited.  She also stated that during the Mass, no pictures or videos at all are to be taken.  She also said that since this was a Mass, all visitors were asked to leave the Cathedral so that those who were there to worship could do so reverently.  She then made this same statement in French, Italian, German, English, Portoguese, Galician and a few other languages I didn’t recognize.  In other words, she made it clear regarding her requests regarding photos, videos, and visitors. A nun came to the Lectern by the Altar and sang for us the Responsorial Hymns we were to sing during the Mass.  She had a very gentle, angelic voice. Very appropriate for this venue.  Soon the Mass started.  The Homily (Sermon) given by the Celebrant (Priest) was very warm and welcoming.  This Cathedral can hold 1,000 worshipers for Mass.  The Cathedral was packed with standing room only.  This is a very large Cathedral but one has the sense of coziness and closeness to one another in this Sanctuary.  Although the entire Mass was conducted in Spanish and a little Latin, I understood most of it.  His Homily was tied in with the Spirit of the Camino and how the Pilgrims carry that spirit in friendship and openness for one another when walking the Camino.  He talked about the importance of each of us to continue to treat one another with this same positive approach when we go out into the World.  It was a very uplifting and welcoming sermon.  I believe it was the perfect message for our pilgrimage to Santiago.  We received Holy Communion which was one of the most meaningful I’ve ever experienced.  In this place, in this house of St. James. After Communion was given, about 8 men in maroon robes approached the Altar and started clearing a path for the Botafumeiro.  These men are tiraboleiros who handle the Botafumeiro and massive rope holding and controlling the Botafumeiro.  They lit the incense inside this giant Thurible and then started the swing the Botafumeiro.  Slowly, methodically they swang the object both side by side and up and down, just as a Priest would with a miniature version,  Then the Botafumeiro started to gain momentum swinging side by side with an ever increasing arc.  I chose to honor the request of no photos or video of the Mass.  Although that request was clearly made in enough languages that everyone should have known, disappointingly, a very large number of people chose to ignore or defy the request.  Throughout the Mass people were taking photos (with flash) and videos.  When the Botafumeiro started to swing, to many people to count started flashing and videoing away.  I was personally disappointed at their lack of respect for what was a very personal gift of this special and meaningful Mass.  However, it was an incredible sight seeing the Botafumeiro reach the maximum length of its arc, the height it reached at each end of its swing, the speed it attained and the total control of the Botafumeiro the tiraboleiros held.  It is a visual, emotion, and memory I’ll carry the rest of my life. As the Botafumeiro majestically slowed to a reverent stop, still bombarded with flashes and videos, many of these same people started applauding and whistling like they just saw a show. Maybe it’s me and I’m “old fashioned” when it comes to being reverent in Mass and simply in awe of what I just witnessed and experienced, I prayed for better understanding as to why I was disappointed at those who had complete disregard for the clear instructions at the beginning of the Mass.  I’ll need more discernment on that topic and try to learn what lesson is there for me to learn from. I will post pictures of some of the Camino friends we saw Sunday afternoon and Monday after the Pilgrims Mass.  I plan to make several more posts in the coming days and weeks too share some of my reflections but also to share some of my experiences which might be of some use for fellow pilgrims planning to start their own Camino in the coming year.  Nancy and I will be happy to make ourselves available to provide our insights or answer specific questions you may have regarding your upcoming Camino. This much I do believe, the Camino experience has been too rich and deep for me to process so quickly after reaching Santiago.  It may take me days, months, or even years before I realize the full impact of this journey.  This much I also believe, my “Camino” doesn’t end at Santiago de Compostela in northwest Spain.  I suspect my “Camino” and the Spirit of the Camino continues and will continue to give back to me for the rest of my life. Buen Camino!

Volker, the handsome police officer from near Osnabrueck and Renate the pretty, shy young lady from near Munich who were so kind to Heike and I after our 40 kilometer walk to Reliegos. They reminded me of what is so good about Germany – it’s people.

Natasha with Heike in line to receive our Compostela. Natasha is in the German Army (prettiest soldier I ever saw!) and another one of those angels who welcomed us at Reliegos. She was leaving the next day to continue walking to Finisterre. Champions League, Natasha!

Jana, from the former East Germany who was walking at about the same pace as us as we kept running into each other for the last 300 or so kilometers.

Our Canadian Camino friends who we kept running into along the way. Wayne, I’ll be watching your Maple Leafs next year!

Gabby with Heike and the rest of the Gomez-Ortmanns-Sanchez crew at dinner last night. Gabby is a very friendly lady with a lovely family back home. We hope to see her again.

Marc, the young man from Barcelona who literally hobbled and limped his way to Santiago.

Mila, the very pretty, young Spaniard from Madrid who we all met and shared dinner with at the Casa Milia.

Dinner last night with our uncle and aunt – Adel and Janice along with our new found Camino friends, Charlie and Paula and our “old” Camino friends Heike and Gabby.

My beloved Uncle Adel, my tio, who I have literally met in places as far apart as Heidelberg, Germany, Seoul, South Korea and now, Santiago de Compostela!

Britta, from Denmark, completing her third Camino! We met her in Leon and have been Camino friends since.

The famous Botafumeiro in the Santiago Cathedral.

St. James, the Moorslayer, in the Cathedral, also known as St. James the Pilgrim.

The Altar at the Santiago Cathedral before the Pilgrim’s Mass on Monday, June 10.

Typical scene at the Plaza in front of the Santiago Cathedral. Pilgrims from all over the world.