You’re probably tired by now reading how terrible the weather has been by Spain standards for this time of year. Every morning on our 15 day walk has been cold. This n morning was chilly and by our first break a few kilometers outside of Riego de Ambros, the cold finally gave way to the Spanish sun! In a beautiful little opening in the woods we took off our fleeces cold cold weather clothes as Andrea was playing a Gloria Estefan Cuban tune. Nancy and I broke out into a few salsa steps as Andrea and Heike laughingly watched and two French women only a few meters away sitting under a tree watched us in bewilderment. People don’t salsa on the Camino! Well, I guess they do now!
For the rest of the day, the weather was glorious. Not a cloud in the sky that was so blue you’d think it was painted. We stopped in Molinaseca for a cafe con leche. This is a very old town first built by Romans then became part of the original trail of the Camino de Santiago. We decided to stay in the much larger town of Ponferrada today to keep our legs fresh for the steepest climb on the Camino – O’Cebreiro the day after tomorrow. When we descend that mountain we’ll be in Galicia!
At this pace, by this Sunday we’ll only be about 140 kilometers from Santiago!
There is a German phrase I absolutely love which Heike taught us. When someone traveling under ideal conditions, you respond with a partial sentence of “Wenn engel Reise.” In English that means “when angels travel.” The angels were certainly traveling with us today! We stopped in Ponferrada, secured rooms in the Hostel San Miguel and had time to eat a delicious lunch followed by a visit to an ice cream shop. We did this sitting outside in the sun! We then visited the Basilica de la Encina, is historically significant 16th Century church and the Castillo de Los Temlarios, a truly impressive 12th Century castle in which Templar Knights protected the area and pilgrims on their way to Santiago. We head off tomorrow for a long day. Can’t wait!
Starting off the morning in Riego de Ambros.
Heading down a steep hill toward Molinaseca. We have definitely left the Meseta!
Molinaseca as we approach from the hills.
Medieval bridge over the Rio Boeza as we enter Molinaseca.
Notice the short sleeves? It’s warm today!
We went over those mountains just two days ago!
In the suburbs of Ponferrada.
Shepherd and his dogs leading a flock of sheep across the street.
The 12th Century Templar Castle – Castillo de Los Templarios.
Andrea enjoying a beer with her Dad.
Decadent ice cream dessert after a good hike!
The Basilica de la Encina.
statue of a Templar Knight outside the Basilica.
camino500 
Wow, pictures and story! I’m getting a sense of the experience and (sheer distance) now. Sounds like y’all finally got your walking legs – great! I notice a shift in perspective too, perhaps a chance now to savor even more this great experience as the days diminish? I think this will be a great and lasting experience for all three of you. It has been fun following your journey – enjoy every minute! Love to all from Ken & Cath P.S. When you get back let’s walk up to Cheyenne for a beer . . .
Hi Ken and Cathy,
That’s really funny! It seems that we are so attuned to walking that going to Cheyenne for a beer really put things into perspective. That’s a 6 to 7 day walk! At least now I know that I can do that! Round trip!
Much love to you and Cathy.
Sounds like you have turned a corner and are feeling good, just as the weather turned warmer. Such good news. May the rest of your journey be with improved weather and health!! Blessings, Bob
Hi Bob!
We’re feeling really good but dog tired. If all goes well, we’ll be in Santiago a week from today!
Much love from Joe and Nancy
We never get tired of your blogs Joe! You put in a lot of nice detail and historical facts. Some evenings I set aside Dan Brown’s ‘Inferno’ in favor of your blog!
Hi Jeff,
I’m glad you are enjoying the blog. I’ve been enjoying sharing our experiences and some pictures.
Please give all my best to the old gang.
Joe
Joe- you are getting near Galicia and I wanted to share with you the history of our Krewe of Sant Yago which I joined 5 years ago here in Tampa. I know that if you were here, you would be a member with me for sure. in lieu of that, I am bestowing an honorary membership based on your adventure and the conviction and endurance you have displayed here on this Blog for all of us to enjoy. I can only hope to do a portion of that walk one day. Here is our background- welcome to the Krewe of the Knights of Sant’Yago!!!
The fraternal order of Sant’ Yago, is dedicated to the Brotherhood of the “Caballeros” Royal Order of St. James, has played a powerful role in the history of Spain. It has been an order since well before the ninth century and has moved men to accomplish incredible deeds. The fraternal order of St. James began when St. James, one of the 12 Apostles, came to Spain to preach the Gospel.
The early conversion of Spain to Christianity is attributed to the missionary zeal of St. James, the fisherman, a disciple of Christ. Traveling the length and breadth of Spain, he converted thousands from Paganism to Christianity. He was summoned to Jerusalem and, at the age of 44, was beheaded by Herod Agrippa.
James’ followers and devotees carried his body back to Spain, his adopted land, and laid him to rest in the region of La Coruna, in the province of Galicia, and this became the place of pilgrimage for those early Christians. They came from all over Europe, braving the dangers of travel. To this day, one may follow the “Way of St. James” (“El Camino de Santiago”) from France into Spain.
The next 400 years saw Spain suffer under the heavy hand of war. Rome and Carthage swept across the land and it became far too dangerous to be a Christian, let alone make a pilgrimage, so the grave of St. James lay unattended and forgotten. The Moors and Arabs came and Spain was brought to her knees.
Then, the hermit monk in the forest found the lonely grave of St. James in a field ablaze with little stars. Legend has it that he led the village priests to the site and it was confirmed that this was truly the place of St. James burial. The King declared that the church be built on the site and the town of Santiago rose around it.
There, followed 400 years of wars, and in the 12th century, Christian forces were being badly beaten. Defeat seemed inevitable. But, as the story goes, amid the roar and screams of battle, there appeared a vision of St. James, astride a white horse, carrying a flag with a cross emblazoned on it. The Christian soldiers were suddenly able to overcome impossible odds and delivered a blow to Islam from which it never recovered. St. James (Sant’ Yago) became the Patron Saint of Spain.
Once again, pilgrims made the long journey to the grave of St. James at Santiago de Compostela (St. James of the Starry Field). Out of the countryside rode knights in search of adventure. Their sole purpose was the defense of good and right; the knights banded together to afford protection to the pilgrims as they traveled. The people began to speak of the knights of Sant’ Yago, and their deeds culminated in the founding of the Royal Order of St. James, “Cofradia de Caballeros de la Orden Real de Sant’ Yago.” Many famous Spanish explorers were members of the Brotherhood.
Joe- our Krewe was chartered by the King of Spain and we are 43 years old here in Tampa—que dios te bendiga – VIVA SANT’YAGO.
Wow Bob!
Thanks for the honor!
You’re right, If I were in Tampa, I’d love to a part of the Krewe. If all goes well, we’ll be in Santiago a week from today!
All our love to you, Doria and the family
Hi Joe, as I read your headline, i knew Heike gave you some more cultural, folk like german background …, it’s sounds like you all having a better time, while the sky is blue and the sun is shining! I’ m happy about that! Now that the peak is exceeded, take the tail wind and make it happend. Can’ t wait to see the picture: you all in front of the cathedrale in santiago-go-go-go ;-))))))
Big hugh from Yvonne, Thomas & Pia
Yvonne,
Thanks for your support and hugs from you and your family. Heike is really doing well on the Camino. 5 must be her number. She’s lost about 5 kilos in weight and is now hiking at a great pace of over 5 kilometers an hour. She is the true Camino Queen! – Joe
Joe – May the Lord bless you and your family and the work and relationships you are completing in His name.
Blessings,
Tom Clifford & family
Tom,
Thank you! Great hearing from you!
I hope that all is well with you and your family!