Day 6 and 7 – Sahagun and Camino Lessons

Yesterday was the first day I missed making a post since we started our walk last Friday.  The wifi connection at the Alberque we stayed at was simply too slow

Yesterday was to be our first true “test run” of walking a longer distance since we’ve been trying to gradually break into a rhythm that will allow us to average about 13 miles a day.  Because this particular stage had us walking on the ancient Roman Road known as the  Via Aquitana, there was a considerably long stretch of hiking in the Meseta wilderness.  The landscape remains beautiful with the expansive farmland seen to the horizon in all directions.  We left at 0800 in the morning in the fog.  It was very cold.  So, the weather has not been kind.  We’ve dealt with freezing cold, rain, wind, and warmth.  Some of the Alberques have no heat. Therefore, some nights, we’ve slept with our clothes on wrapped in blankets.  The Camino is not for the weak of heart!

Yesterday Nancy and Andrea had an excellent rhythm  going. We had a steady pace at about 2.5 – 3.0 miles per hour. We stopped a few times to eat, drink water and rest our legs.  To ease Nancy and Andrea’s load, I’ve been using the service which transports your backpack to the next destination.  Walking with no backpack makes a huge difference.  I’m still carrying mine.  Not easy.

We walked a good distance on the Via Aquitana.  What is truly amazing to me is that it is over 2,000 years old and it’s still being used!

The sun finally came out strong so the afternoon was very warm.  I took off my fleece.  We’ve been traveling with a very kind and generous person, Heike, whom I’ve previously mentioned. She really hit it off with Nancy, Andrea and me.  We don’t know how long we’ll keep walking together but so far, it’s been really nice having her share the Camino with us.

At about 5 or 6 kilometers from our goal, Nancy’s knee seemed to have given out.  She started limping noticeably and was clearly  in pain.  There is no place out in the Camino to get help when in an area as remote as this.  The next town was about 2 kms away.  Nancy took some of her pain medication which seemed to help.  She literally limped into the tiny town of Ledigos.  We stopped for a rest and refreshments.  No cab or bus service.  Nancy said she could walk/limp to the next town.  She did.  It was another 3.3 kms away.  I pushed ahead as quickly as I could to ensure we had a place to stay that evening.  Although I made reservations the night before, the person running the Alberque stated that we needed to check in by  2pm.  It was already after 3pm.

I got to the Alberque Jacques de Molay in Terradillos de los Templarios at around 3:30pm. They still had our room held for us.  This is a town of about 80 people.  It was once considered a stronghold of the Knights Templar.  You can no longer tell that now.

Nancy and Andrea arrived about 20 minutes later.  We took a close look at her knee.  It was swollen.  Andrea had also been complaining of her hips getting stiff.  Since last Friday, we’ve now walked over 100 kilometers.  Yesterday was the longest walk from Carrion de los Condes to Terradillos de Templarios.  26.8  kilometers (16.7 miles).  The evening was also bitter cold especially since we had no heating.  Sleeping with your clothes on in sleeping bags and blankets has become the norm.  So far, all of us are suffering from very sore feet.  Although my feet and lower back are sore and no blisters so far, I’ve caught a bad cold in which I can’t seem to keep warm, my throat is sore, one of my ears is sensitive to the touch and I’ve got a very runny nose and at times, it seems that I can’t stop coughing.  I can’t seem to get warm.  However, my ailments pale in comparison to Nancy’s knee.  Therefore, this morning I arranged a taxi to take Nancy and Andrea to Sahagun and from there catch a train to Leon.  They will be staying in a nice hotel there and have three days to recuperate and spend some quality mother daughter time together while I continue hiking.  I should arrive in Leon this Saturday afternoon.  My plan is to walk 30 kilometers tomorrow (18.6 miles) to a village called Reliegos.  Saturday will be a 27 km walk to Leon.  I think I’ll be OK if I could just get rid of this cold.  Since yesterday was our longest day so far, Heike and I walked only to Sahagun today which is now considered an “easy” walk of only 14 kilometers.  Tomorrow will be different.  My feet ache each night and my lower back remains stiff.  However, I feel good each morning and I think my walking legs are starting to develop.  We’ll see.

If I arrive in Leon this Saturday as planned, we’ll assess how Nancy and Andrea are doing walking wise.   As it is in life, not one single day is promised to us. Neither is the Camino.

Nancy starting her walk yesterday morning. Very cold and foggy morning.

Here we are by a very old marker identifying the 2,000 year old Via Aquitana

Nancy is so tough! Still smiling after walking nearly 17 miles today on a bum knee.

Common scene at the Alberque’s after a long day’s hike.

Young pilgrims from all over the world gathering to listen to two people strumming their guitars and singing in the garden/courtyard at the Jacque de Molay Alberque